First Night on the Camino Francés

Starting the Camino de Santiago is an exciting moment. If you are walking the Camino Francés, your journey will usually begin in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a historic French town at the foot of the Pyrenees.

One of the first decisions you need to make is where to sleep on your first night. You can stay in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port before beginning your walk, stop at a mountain refuge like Refuge Orisson or Auberge Borda along the Route Napoléon, or continue across the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles in Spain.

The best option depends on when you arrive, your walking experience, the weather and how comfortable you feel tackling the first stage. This guide explains the choices and helps you plan your first night on the Camino Francés.

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Should You Stay in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port Before Starting?

For many pilgrims, the best choice is to spend the night in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port before beginning the Camino. This gives you time to collect your pilgrim credential, check your equipment, buy any last-minute supplies and enjoy the town before setting off.

Arriving the day before you walk is particularly helpful if you have travelled a long distance or are arriving by train or bus. You can have a proper meal, get a good night’s sleep and start the following morning without rushing.

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port has a wide choice of accommodation, including municipal and private albergues, guesthouses and hotels. Some properties offer shared dormitories, while others provide private rooms.

When choosing where to stay, consider the location, arrival time, breakfast arrangements and whether you need to reserve a bed in advance. If you arrive late in the day, confirm the property’s check-in arrangements before booking.

Explore our Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port accommodation directory to compare places to stay before your Camino begins.

Where to Stay After Your First Day of Walking

If you plan to start walking as soon as you leave Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, you have two main choices on the traditional Route Napoléon: stop at a couple of mid mountain locations or continue to Roncesvalles.

The full crossing is demanding. The route climbs high into the Pyrenees before descending towards Roncesvalles, and weather conditions can make the day more difficult. Do not choose an overnight stop simply because it appears in a standard itinerary. Consider your fitness, the conditions and the time you have available.

Option 1: Stay at Refuge Orisson

Refuge Orisson is a popular overnight stop on the Route Napoléon, approximately 8 kilometres from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. It allows pilgrims to divide the mountain crossing into two shorter walking days.

The refuge is in a mountain setting with views across the surrounding landscape. Accommodation is simple and geared towards pilgrims and walkers. The stay includes an evening meal and breakfast, served as part of its half-board arrangement.

The evening meal is a communal meal and a real pilgrim experience. It allows 60+ pilgrims to talk about the Camino who are from all walks of life ending with each pilgrim standing up saying where they are from and why they are doing the camino.

Stopping at Orisson can be a good choice if you want to take your time on the first day, enjoy the mountain scenery and avoid completing the entire crossing in one go.

However, availability is limited. If you want to stay here, check the opening dates and reserve well in advance. Do not assume a bed will be available when you arrive as it probably won’t be.

Option 2: Auberge Borda or Albergue Ferme Ithurburia

Refuge Orisson is not the only possible intermediate stop on the mountain route. Auberge Borda is another fabulous stop just 2km past Orisson as well as Albergue Ferme Ithurburia which is in Huntto.

These places are not in a town and have no services near them at all. They are remote refuges that are typically closed up and left for the winter season. The number of beds is limited, and you should confirm the exact location, access arrangements, meals and booking conditions before making a reservation.

If any of these properties are fully booked, do not assume that you can simply find another bed nearby. Check the available options before starting your walk. For some pilgrims, staying at an intermediate refuge makes the first stage more manageable.

Check out the differences between Refuge Orisson and Auberge Borda.

Option 3: Walk All the Way to Roncesvalles

Some pilgrims complete the entire first stage from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles in one day. The traditional Route Napoléon is approximately 24 to 26 kilometres, depending on the route and how the distance is measured, and includes substantial climbing and descent.

This is a demanding day, particularly for anyone who has not trained for long walks or is carrying a full backpack. You need to allow enough time, carry suitable food and water, and be prepared for changing mountain weather.

Roncesvalles offers pilgrim accommodation, including the large Albergue de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles, as well as other places to stay. Before choosing this option, check the route conditions and the opening status of your accommodation. Do not set out late in the day expecting to reach Roncesvalles without difficulty.

Compare your options in our Roncesvalles accommodation directory.

What If You Prefer the Valcarlos Route?

The Valcarlos route is an alternative way to cross the Pyrenees from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles. It follows the valley through Valcarlos and includes sections alongside roads, rather than following the high mountain route of the Route Napoléon.

Some pilgrims choose this route because of the weather, their walking plans or the conditions on the mountain. Accommodation options and overnight arrangements differ, so check what is available if you intend to divide the journey.

The Route Napoléon is normally closed to pilgrims during the winter period, commonly from 1 November to 31 March, and the Valcarlos route must be used when the closure applies. These dates can change a lot all depending on when the snow clears and the pass opens. Always check current official route restrictions before you set off. Never use the mountain route when it is closed.

How to Choose the Best First Night for You

There is no single best option for every pilgrim. Think about your arrival time, walking experience and how you want to begin your journey.

• Stay in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port the night before: a good choice if you want time to prepare, explore the town and begin walking after a full night’s sleep.
• Stop in Orisson or Borda: useful if you want to split the mountain crossing into two days. Reserve well ahead because accommodation is limited.
• Walk to Roncesvalles: suitable for pilgrims who are prepared for a long, demanding day and have checked the conditions.
• Consider the Valcarlos route: an alternative when the Route Napoléon is closed or when the valley route better suits the conditions and your plans.

Do not feel pressured to complete the first stage in one day just because other pilgrims do. Starting at a comfortable pace can help you enjoy the Camino and reduce the risk of becoming exhausted at the beginning of your journey.

Book Your First Night in Advance

Accommodation around Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and the first mountain stage can be in high demand, particularly during the main walking season. Intermediate refuges have limited capacity, so leaving your first night to chance can make planning more difficult.

Before booking, confirm the price, room type, meals, opening dates, cancellation policy and check-in arrangements. If you are staying at a mountain refuge, make sure you understand its location and the walking distance from your starting point.

Read our guide to how to book albergues on the Camino de Santiago for more advice on reservations and choosing accommodation.

Find Accommodation for the Start of Your Camino

Your first night sets the tone for the journey ahead. Whether you stay in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port before starting, break the mountain crossing at an intermediate refuge or walk all the way to Roncesvalles, plan around your needs rather than following a schedule that may not suit you.

Compare the options, check current conditions and reserve early where necessary. A little preparation will help you begin your Camino Francés with greater confidence.

Start by exploring our Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port accommodation listings and our Roncesvalles accommodation listings.

Buen Camino!